I know… as usual, it has been a while… but a summer trip back to  my home and native land has kept me pretty busy!

But lots coming about the trek and other adventures… a video and a new indiegogo campaign to get underway! 🙂

Also! Domain name status! !

Here here for big girls, big wars, and big dreams!

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Collioure to Banyul-sur-Mer





This was the hardest hike of my life… 18kms on the coast walk from Collioure to Banyul-sur-Mer. 6kms of it was rated difficult, and when the French say their trail is difficult, it is DIFFICULT!

These pics are in reverse order… so this is from back to front.

Sadly, I have no log as my iPad is out of the loop at the moment. 😦



IMG_4422 - 2014-02-19 at 18-48-04

My trusty hikers at the end of the show!IMG_4421 - 2014-02-19 at 18-34-56

The end of the trail!IMG_4420 - 2014-02-19 at 17-50-34

Coming into Banyuls…IMG_4418 - 2014-02-19 at 17-49-53IMG_4417 - 2014-02-19 at 17-49-45IMG_4416 - 2014-02-19 at 17-16-51IMG_4415 - 2014-02-19 at 17-16-46

The sea walls, built by Organization Todt in 1944.IMG_4414 - 2014-02-19 at 16-48-18

The TNT factory at Paulillies – Built as far away from Germany as Nobel could!IMG_4413 - 2014-02-19 at 16-47-54IMG_4412 - 2014-02-19 at 16-32-58IMG_4410 - 2014-02-19 at 16-09-34IMG_4411 - 2014-02-19 at 16-32-46IMG_4408 - 2014-02-19 at 15-57-01 See that little trail in the upper right hand corner? That was the trail… 



IMG_4407 - 2014-02-19 at 14-58-10IMG_4405 - 2014-02-19 at 14-57-47IMG_4406 - 2014-02-19 at 14-57-50IMG_4404 - 2014-02-19 at 14-57-39IMG_4402 - 2014-02-19 at 14-47-17IMG_4401 - 2014-02-19 at 14-45-40IMG_4400 - 2014-02-19 at 14-43-47IMG_4399 - 2014-02-19 at 14-43-41IMG_4398 - 2014-02-19 at 14-43-04IMG_4397 - 2014-02-19 at 14-43-02IMG_4395 - 2014-02-19 at 14-36-36IMG_4396 - 2014-02-19 at 14-42-45IMG_4394 - 2014-02-19 at 14-36-32

German bunkers… all over around the semaphore station.IMG_4393 - 2014-02-19 at 14-34-11

Wehrmacht was here…IMG_4392 - 2014-02-19 at 14-30-36


Banyuls in the distance.IMG_4391 - 2014-02-19 at 14-30-27


The Cap Bear Semaphore station… It has been there for a very long time.IMG_4390 - 2014-02-19 at 14-16-15IMG_4389 - 2014-02-19 at 14-08-06

Africa that way!IMG_4388 - 2014-02-19 at 14-07-41

St. Cyprien…IMG_4387 - 2014-02-19 at 14-07-30

The Port Vendres light house in the distance.IMG_4386 - 2014-02-19 at 14-07-03

Only looooosers take the road…. later on I was praying to find it.IMG_4384 - 2014-02-19 at 13-45-33


STEEEEEP!IMG_4383 - 2014-02-19 at 13-42-17IMG_4382 - 2014-02-19 at 13-42-09IMG_4381 - 2014-02-19 at 13-40-18IMG_4380 - 2014-02-19 at 13-40-05

Part of the Charles Rennie Macintosh route…IMG_4378 - 2014-02-19 at 13-37-39

Flak emplacement.IMG_4377 - 2014-02-19 at 13-36-08

Germans were here!IMG_4375 - 2014-02-19 at 13-35-41IMG_4374 - 2014-02-19 at 13-35-32

This is a special, all metal lighthouse from 1832.IMG_4373 - 2014-02-19 at 13-35-22IMG_4371 - 2014-02-19 at 13-34-39

And… fortifications by Vauban, or at least in the style of Vauban in the 1600s.IMG_4370 - 2014-02-19 at 13-32-46

More remains from the German fortifications from WWII.IMG_4369 - 2014-02-19 at 13-26-19IMG_4367 - 2014-02-19 at 13-25-40

Vauban…IMG_4363 - 2014-02-19 at 13-25-03

Beautiful Port VendresIMG_4366 - 2014-02-19 at 13-25-28IMG_4362 - 2014-02-19 at 13-19-19IMG_4361 - 2014-02-19 at 13-18-42Not many words, but a lot of pictures…


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Carcassonne by day

For the history of Carcassonne, check out Carcassonne by night. Lots of fab night pics!IMG_4309 - 2014-02-01 at 12-32-35

The city and the Pont Vieux!

IMG_4306 - 2014-02-01 at 12-28-08

Which is a beautiful bridge!

IMG_4307 - 2014-02-01 at 12-32-21

When you look at it, it almost doesn’t seem real.

IMG_4304 - 2014-02-01 at 12-27-09

There is such a fairy tale quality to Carcassonne.

IMG_4303 - 2014-02-01 at 12-26-31

The Pont Neuf.

IMG_4301 - 2014-02-01 at 12-25-29

It was a hazy, rainy morning.

IMG_4299 - 2014-02-01 at 12-25-00

The Aude river.

IMG_4295 - 2014-02-01 at 12-22-49

I like this pic because my partner in crime wasn’t so good with the autofocus on the DSLR.

IMG_4294 - 2014-02-01 at 12-22-47

Warbird, kitted out for travel.

IMG_4290 - 2014-02-01 at 12-21-22

More of the city.

IMG_4289 - 2014-02-01 at 12-21-17 IMG_4288 - 2014-02-01 at 12-21-12 IMG_4287 - 2014-02-01 at 12-20-58 IMG_4282 - 2014-02-01 at 12-09-05

It is like it comes from a whole, other world.

IMG_4285 - 2014-02-01 at 12-19-29 IMG_4278 - 2014-02-01 at 12-07-40 IMG_4277 - 2014-02-01 at 12-06-50

A reproduction of the statue of Carcas, the Saracen queen of Carcassonne.

IMG_4276 - 2014-02-01 at 12-06-43

If I was the soldier trying to take the city, I would be pondering a career change.

IMG_4275 - 2014-02-01 at 12-06-18

Um… yes. Bad plastic surgery of the middle ages.

IMG_4274 - 2014-02-01 at 12-05-58

Like…seriously.. had the sculptor seen breasts before?

IMG_4273 - 2014-02-01 at 12-05-43

Border castle, Cathar stronghold… the place is completely amazing.

IMG_4269 - 2014-02-01 at 12-04-04

Perfect for all your gaming fantasies.

IMG_4268 - 2014-02-01 at 12-03-37 IMG_4267 - 2014-02-01 at 12-03-10 IMG_4265 - 2014-02-01 at 12-02-37

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Carcassonne by night



Want to see the city by day? Check out Carcassonne by Day! 🙂

IMG_4164 - 2014-01-31 at 19-30-51

So the Kookie and I went to the amazing fortified city of Carcassonne… and while I wasn’t logging my walk, we spent a long time walking around the city.

IMG_4165 - 2014-01-31 at 19-31-05

The Romans first fortified here during the time of the republic- Wiki says 100 BC. These towers date to probably 5 BC or so.  O.O

IMG_4166 - 2014-01-31 at 19-31-08

All of these pics were taken with my happy Canon DSLR. 🙂

IMG_4167 - 2014-01-31 at 19-31-09

Walking around Carcassonne makes you feel like you are a part of something ancient.

IMG_4168 - 2014-01-31 at 19-31-34

What is amazing is that people still live here, and always have.IMG_4169 - 2014-01-31 at 19-31-42 For a girl form the new world, that is pretty special.IMG_4171 - 2014-01-31 at 19-31-53

The French government had intended to tear Carcassonne down in the 1850s when it no longer had military significance and was in poor repair. Public outcry saved it, and a massive campaign, lasting 30 years began. In this pic you can really see the restored bricks. IMG_4174 - 2014-01-31 at 19-32-52

Nothing prepares you for the scope.IMG_4175 - 2014-01-31 at 19-33-02

And the fun you can have with the hot lights in your photo post production! 🙂IMG_4178 - 2014-01-31 at 19-33-19

The Visigoths took control of Carcassonne in 465 AD!IMG_4179 - 2014-01-31 at 19-44-04

And it grew….IMG_4180 - 2014-01-31 at 19-44-06

Saracens took Carcassonne in 725.IMG_4190 - 2014-01-31 at 19-46-43

King Pepin the short of the French tried to take the city back, in fact, he retook much land under Saracen control, but he never recaptured Carcassonne. IMG_4193 - 2014-01-31 at 19-48-05

The Saracens were driven away in 760.IMG_4195 - 2014-01-31 at 19-48-34

Raimand-Bernard Trencavel took control of Carcassonne in 1067 when he married the sister of the last count of Carcassonne. The Trencavel family ruled Carcassonne until one of the darker parts of the cities history.IMG_4196 - 2014-01-31 at 19-49-01

Trencavel, as with many nobles of the Langeudoc was a Cathar family.IMG_4203 - 2014-01-31 at 19-52-45

Cathars were – (from Wiki)  a Christian dualist movement that thrived in some areas of Southern Europe, particularly northern Italy and southern France, between the 12th and 14th centuries. Cathar beliefs varied between communities because Catharism was initially taught by ascetic priests who had set few guidelines. The Cathars were a direct challenge to the Catholic Church, which denounced its practices and dismissed it outright as the Church of Satan.[3]IMG_4212 - 2014-01-31 at 19-56-52

The King of France launched the Albigensian crusade around 1209 against the Cathar lands. While he officially did it to stamp out Catharism, this was a war of North against South. IMG_4213 - 2014-01-31 at 19-57-09

The French kings knew they couldn’t take Carcassonne, so they created a terrible plan.IMG_4214 - 2014-01-31 at 19-57-16

They took another city under the control of the Trencavel family, Bezier, on July 21, 1209. They ordered the Catholics and the Cathars to separate themselves and for the Cathars to surrender. The groups refused, so the forces under the the papal legate, Arnaud Amalric took the city.IMG_4219 - 2014-01-31 at 19-58-38Cathars and Catholics alike were butchered.

IMG_4220 - 2014-01-31 at 19-58-58According to legend, when asked by a Crusader how they should tell who was a Cathar and who wasn’t… Amalric said:

Caedite eos. Novit enim Dominus qui sunt eius (Kill them all. For the Lord knoweth them that are His.)

IMG_4221 - 2014-01-31 at 19-59-07In a letter to the pope, Amalric said:

While discussions were still going on with the barons about the release of those in the city who were deemed to be Catholics, the servants and other persons of low rank and unarmed attacked the city without waiting for orders from their leaders. To our amazement, crying “to arms, to arms!”, within the space of two or three hours they crossed the ditches and the walls and Béziers was taken. Our men spared no one, irrespective of rank, sex or age, and put to the sword almost 20,000 people. After this great slaughter the whole city was despoiled and burnt…

IMG_4223 - 2014-01-31 at 20-04-13Count Raymond-Roger de Trencavel knew that the forces of Amalric couldn’t take his city of Carcassonne, but he also knew his people would suffer terribly from a siege.

IMG_4224 - 2014-01-31 at 20-08-07

He arranged a surrender, provided his people were not harmed. IMG_4228 - 2014-01-31 at 20-11-04 

Amalric kept his word. The people of Carcassonne were spared.

IMG_4232 - 2014-01-31 at 20-16-58

Trencavel disappeared into a dungeon, dying mysteriously three months later.

IMG_4233 - 2014-01-31 at 20-17-44

The city became the property of Simon de Montfort, who increased the defences of the city. IMG_4235 - 2014-01-31 at 20-19-38

Trencavel’s son tried to take the city back in 1240, but failed. In 1247, the city officially became part of France.

IMG_4237 - 2014-01-31 at 20-20-53

Another roman era tower. You can tell from the bands of red bricks.

IMG_4238 - 2014-01-31 at 20-21-19 During the 100 years war in 1355, the Black Prince tried to take Carcassonne. Even though the fortress was said to be impregnable, he thought he could capture it. He failed. 

IMG_4239 - 2014-01-31 at 20-22-10

Roman tower again! 🙂IMG_4242 - 2014-01-31 at 20-24-08

Carcassonne stood on the border between France and Aragon, defending the French border.

IMG_4245 - 2014-01-31 at 20-26-35

When the rest of Roussillon was transferred to France in 1659, Carcassonne was so far within the French borders that it’s importance as a military site ended.

IMG_4246 - 2014-01-31 at 20-27-30

But the city thrived on the wine and textile trade. IMG_4247 - 2014-01-31 at 20-28-07

But by the 1850s, Carcassonne was in decline; the military no longer wanted to maintain a garrison there. The walls were in a dangerous state. But public outcry saved the city from demolition.IMG_4251 - 2014-01-31 at 20-30-00

Eugène Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc was hired to restore the city.

IMG_4252 - 2014-01-31 at 20-30-18

The problem was that due to two fires in the city archives, there were no pictures of Carcassonne in its heyday.IMG_4254 - 2014-01-31 at 20-30-29

Just fragments. So some of what you see today is accurate, and some is a romantic, Victorian ideal.

IMG_4255 - 2014-01-31 at 20-32-00

But it is all fabulous!

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Mont Saint Louis

The UNESCO World heritage site of Mont Louis, which is part of a group of sites called the fortifications of Vauban- all forts from the late 1600s.

IMG_3911 - 2014-01-29 at 13-54-43

This was up in the Pyrenees and the sky really was that blue! 🙂 It was cold up there, about 2C. (ok… cold for me!)

IMG_3909 - 2014-01-29 at 13-54-13

Now there are lots of snow sport places up there, but I can only imagine how forlorn and lonely it must have been in the day for the soldiers. It is on the top of a mountain on what used to be the French Frontier with spain.

IMG_3914 - 2014-01-29 at 13-55-34This wasn’t so much of a war walk, more of a war-venture… An adventure involving war… and general happiness! 😀 But I thought I would share the pics with my happy readers.

IMG_3915 - 2014-01-29 at 13-55-50The Kookie visited me in France, ever willing to go see the military sights! YAY!

IMG_3958 - 2014-01-29 at 14-31-23This entire fortified town existed only to defend the French Frontier. Even today, it is practically in the middle of nowhere.

IMG_3929 - 2014-01-29 at 14-03-39

I simply cannot imagine what it must have been like to be posted here. 

IMG_3956 - 2014-01-29 at 14-26-38

The whole town is part of the fortress.

IMG_3952 - 2014-01-29 at 14-18-30And still important and relevant today. This is a monument to the commandoes of the French Army.

IMG_3953 - 2014-01-29 at 14-19-11As with Collioure, they still train up on this wind scoured mountain top.

IMG_3957 - 2014-01-29 at 14-28-27The amazing things we build in the name of war!






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Planning for the trek!

The trek routeI have been bad about updating this blog… I have been so busy… but here is the route for the big trek this summer! 😀 There will be a few changes here and there… but I think this is pretty much it! It’s about 550 KMs, but there is a spot where I need to take the train for 65 kms, because there is literally nothing there… no hotels to sleep in, so it is what it is. One has to take these things into account. I am going from Pont Au Mousson to the sea. I am told that finishing your trek at the ocean has a really nice finality to it.

vaude-cimone-45---10-sangriaI  picked up a pack in February-
Vaude Cimone 45 + 10 Sangria:

Womens favorite. Includes everything that a trekking backpack needs and fits women perfectly. Extra soft shoulder straps and the adjustable back length to lighten the load. Features a super practical, removable wash bag in the lid compartment and a rain cover for the pack.

The whole, how big should you go has given me a lot of grief. My friend who did the Camino drilled into me not to overpack. She had a 60L and felt overloaded. Most people on the Camino sites say not to go over 35-40 if you are not needing camping gear. I think I have the best of both worlds here. Sangria wouldn’t have been my first choice of colour, but it was the one I could get on sale, and at 45% off, that was worth it being pink and not ‘Lagoon’ which was no longer available.

I also grabbed some Salewa Hike Trainer Insulate Goretex Hiking boots. Wow! Ok. I was sol_x13525-00_pic1_1going to Croc this all out… but… serious shoes make a serious difference. I also got these in an amazing sale… and completely worth it. Nary a blister yet… and  I did a big hike recently and not a blister to be found. Even bigger hike planned! Woot!

Both the shoes and the pack have come from Trekk Inn, and so far, despite the bad comments on their Facebook page, I have found them to be awesome. Not a crass advertisement, but they have good prices for Europe and haven’t let me down!

Now I need to ponder the wonderful world of trekking poles and figure out exactly what I need to take with me. Trekking poles seem stupidly $$$ but Camino friend said her Leki’s saved her life. So I think I will invest in some. I am back in canada this summer, so I will probably get them there.

I also want to get a case for my iPad that I can have handy for gps and pics. I am really torn. I want to take my DSLR… but some people say that the big camera is a heavy item, taking up a lot of space. But photography is my hobby, and this is my big warsplosion. I waffle. Geeky as it is, pad pics aren’t bad.

Everyone still thinks I am crazy, but some friends are thinking of joining me for a week here and there. I will see what happens. 😉 People keep asking me why I don’t just take a car… why take a month off and walk it… I think it is the enormity of it. Just doing it… 🙂 It makes me happy just to think about it. Now… to get fit enough to do it!

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Forts St. Elme and Dugommier

So my new American friend, Linda,  says to me… come on, Bird! Lets hit the forts.

Now Fort St. Elme has been pounding at me like the tell-tale heart. I was always looking up at it… thinking… I have to climb that bastard. What I didn’t know was that you didn’t just go up to it and back. Oh no! The route takes you to the lesser known Fort Dugommier which is MUCH HIGHER!

photo_3See that bad daddy in the upper right hand corner? That is Dugommier. BASTARD! IT felt like a certain amount of bait and switch to think I was going to the lower one and having to  get my rather prodigious derrière up that extra 20 meters. In fact, Dugommier is so hidden and stealthy that one doesn’t even notice it from the town.


Here we have the first sign where I realised that I had been conned!

Now these forts are old. St. Elme has been Elming in some form or another since the 9th century. Yes. That would be about the time the Vikings were pondering visiting North America. Elme has been forting as a fort until 1903. I think a thousand years of work is a good amount of time before you get your retirement. But then, retirement only lasted until 1942, when the Kriegsmarine (German navy!) occupied it from 1942 until 1944. It had a smashing view. I certainly don’t blame them at all. I can see the Kapitan in Charge pondering a few years of drinking Rose with a splendid view… I am sure he said, ‘Shore it up, Lads! Captain needs a bit of shade!’

Dugommier has been around only since 1844. In fact, Dugommier was the name of the General who took the fort back from the Spanish in 1794. According to my english translation of the French Wikipedia page, he did it with the weight of 11,000 balls.

I will let you decide how many Frenchmen it takes to get 11,000 balls because I am just not going there.


What I can tell you  is that all those French and Spanish and German men were not afraid of heights because that walk is a freaking KILLER! This is part way up! Just part. I kid you not!


Now the German Navy built a few artillery emplacements, and on the walk this would be the one you come across. To be honest, I can’t blame them. I would put an emplacement here too…. You can see everything! I stopped here to wheeze and gasp like a 90 year old.

Then all of a sudden, after all the horror and the hurt…. we were up there….

And let me tell you… it was horror, and it was hurt!


You hit Dugommier first, but there just isn’t much to see from the summit as it is all behind fences. It has been abandoned for a long time. I am not to sure if the Germans used it for much or not, but it is a real wheezer to get up there. But from Dugommier it is all downhill… THANK GOD!


But the sense of accomplishment is tremendous! You get there, and you feel like a GOD!

You look down at Vendres…


You can see Cap Bear in that pic… another fort… to be conquered later!

You look down at Collioure…


And suddenly you do the ball calculation as many fewer men… 😉

This is your training. Check it out!

254 meters climbed!!!!!
When Thu, 5 Dec 12:05
Where Fort st elme and duggonier
Workout Free
How did it go Kicked my ass but I am so proud of me!!!
Workout Time 01:32:04
Total Time 01:52:25
Total Distance 6.52 km
Feeling Great
Average Pace 14:07 /km
Average Speed 4.25 km/h
Total Calories Burned 803
Average Cadence 49
Total Steps 9044
Average Stride Length 0.72 m
Climb 254 m
Descend -260 m
Weight Like dragging a brontosaurus uphill…
Shoes Adidas , 17 km
Fastest Song Baila Me-Gipsy Kings
Weather 13 °C, 19km/h W, 54%
Track Points 631

Sent by iSmoothRun

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Nü Stuff!!

So I am coming out of the closet. I am sure you guessed I was female. I have said it from time to time… but now… I am linking up to Facebook in preparation for the big trek. 

Yes. The War walk across the Western Front of WWI is on for September. Did you think I had forgotten? No no.. 

And there will be a lot more on here about walks, especially now that I am in the south of France. A few retro posts are on the way… Lots of exciting stuff and planning to be posted here.

Watch this space…

And watch this space too… Like it!

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Back to the Vendres…

Ok… So it is my favourite local walk. But the port is nice.


I took some new pictures because this time to keep it interesting for you, my happy readers! Also of note, I walked my way to the fish market with my new walking buddy! No, not an imaginary friend, but a lovely lass from the US. WOOT! Fresh meat for the war walking crew! In fact, she is helping me to train for the trek.

But to help you really believe that this lovely port was a veritable Hun sammich, I have managed to track down a picture of Germans in the Vendres in 1942.

Südfrankreich, Hafen, Schützenpanzer


As you can see, they were being incredibly subtle about their national affiliations. I find this rather amusing. It sort of says ‘Yoohoo! La Resistance! This is where you find our motor! Frag me here!‘ Bally Jerries!

Sadly, when the Germans left, they dynamited most of the port to keep the Americans from  using it easily. Now 70 years later, the French are starting to reconstruct some of the historical buildings that were on the quayside.


But still we see some of Louis XIV’s ramparts, once manned by Frenchmen, then manned by Germans then manned by Frenchmen again… sitting on the cliffs.

Does that make up for two Vendres posts in a row?


When Tue, 3 Dec 11:53
Where Port vendres fish market
Workout Free
How did it go I was feeling really depressed and like a total failure, so I am super proud that I hauled myself out of the house.
Workout Time 01:28:12
Total Time 02:01:40
Total Distance 6.97 km
Feeling Tired
Average Pace 12:39 /km
Average Speed 4.74 km/h
Total Calories Burned 739
Average Cadence 50
Total Steps 8743
Average Stride Length 0.80 m
Climb 156 m
Descend -160 m
Weight What is the sound of two thighs slapping?
Shoes Adidas , 10 km
Weather 12 °C, 7km/h SW, 54%
Track Points 673


Sent by iSmoothRun

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To the Port

Yes. If I had been a German soldier in WWII, I would have thought this was the best place ever. Spared the horrors of the Eastern Front, life on the Vermillion Coast would have been pretty cushy. Sure. La Resistance was everywhere- in fact, there is a memorial to the Collioure chapter not far from my abode- but I think there would have been many compensations. Have I mentioned the weather and the wine yet?


Port Vendres is about 3km from Collioure, up and over the cliffs. I will be War Walking my way over there a fair amount. Its a nice journey from from the HQ, and there is some good training… must prepare myself for next years trek.

PV, as we locals say, is the ‘modern’ Port built by Louis XIV to be a Western Med port to rival Marseilles. Designed to be a model town, it was the best that Louis had to offer! And as ports go, PV is pretty skookum! photo_3

Yep. Those cannon are from the Napoleonic  era… when this writer would have been the bad guy. I did have a wee Hornblower moment here…

photo_6PV… a sheltered, deep water port… sun drenched…

photo_7And filled with palm trees.

Do you see what I mean? Imagine being Hans the Happy Hun, marching from dreary Berlin to end up stationed here. I am not Happy Hans, but I am darn thrilled not to be wintering in the Hauptstadt…

photo_4But lest we forget….

photo_5The brave men who fell in that terrible conflict.  This is a memorial to the RAF pilots who died over the area.

photo_1Ah, PV… I shall be back.

This is your training. Check it out!


When Mon, 28 Oct 7:37
Where Port vendres
Workout Free
How did it go It did help with the anxious. PV is really loverly.
Workout Time 01:01:38
Total Time 01:21:10
Total Distance 5.55 km
Feeling Alright
Average Pace 11:06 /km
Average Speed 5.40 km/h
Total Calories Burned 800
Average Cadence 56
Total Steps 7009
Average Stride Length 0.79 m
Climb 332 m
Descend -281 m
Weight Like a ginormous bloater on the beach
Shoes crocskin, 73 km
Weather 13 °C, 7km/h WSW, 94%
Track Points 505


Sent by iSmoothRun






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